Lazy days in a hammock are a favourite in Pai, along with just staring out at the mountains or the river. However, you can make you way to the hot springs, which are well worth the effort. Nestled in a charming forest setting, about seven kilometres out of town, the springs are warm and relaxing, and a visit in the early morning is recommended.

Before you arrive at the hot springs, you will have passed the elephant camps, where you can ride one of these majestic creatures. One of the companies in operation here even offers bareback rides down the river, which is a unique experience that should not be missed.

Pai’s other natural attractions include a pretty if not too impressive waterfall and a canyon. The surrounding areas are stunning, especially during or just after the rainy season. White-water rafting on the Pai River is a favourite with adventure-seekers and some of the rapids are fairly breathtaking. For those looking for a more relaxing experience on the river, bamboo rafting and tubing on a gentler stretch of the river are fun alternatives.

Pai is also a superb base from which to trek into the surrounding mountains and visit hill tribes and other waterfalls. In season, there are two- to three-day treks departing daily to Karen, Lahu and Lisu villages. You can also obtain a local map for self-guided hikes to nearby waterfalls and caves. Massage and yoga are also good activities to pass the time in Pai, and a couple of permaculture farms offer places to hangout and learn about farming and building.

Those that want to do some sightseeing at temples can visit Wat Klang, next to the bus station. It has several small pagodas surrounding a central stupa. Also of interest are Wat Hodana and Wat Nam Hu, west of Route 1095. Wat Nam Hu is known for its Chiang Saen-era Buddha, whose hollow head is filled with holy water.

Pai is also a good stopover point on the popular Mae Hong Son loop. This three- to four-day self-drive/ride excursion takes you from Chiang Mai through the amazing mountain scenery to Mae Hong Son and back via Doi Inthanon national park. Along the way you can experience the beauty of Huay Nam Dang national park (before Pai), the caves at Soppong and numerous waterfalls.

There's little in the way of tour sites in Pai (most people come to put their feet up) but it's a great place to stroll along country lanes or even rent a motorbike and buzz around the countryside. There are a few small temples: Wat Klang is next to the bus station and has several small pagodas surrounding a central stupa and Wat Hodana and Wat Nam Hu are west of Route 1095: Nam Hu is known for its Chiang Saen-era Buddha, whose hollow head is filled with holy water. There's a waterfall about 7km (4 1/3 miles) west of town past the two wats, and a hot spring about 7km (4 1/3 miles) to the east, past the Pai High School.

The Pai River is perhaps the most exciting attraction. Overnight rafting trips take you through some exciting rapids as well as more scenic lazy spots, through canyons walled with prehistoric fossilized lime and shell as well as a wildlife sanctuary. A pioneer of the rafting business here, long-time resident Guy Gorias runs Thai Adventure Rafting (Rangsiyanon Rd. in the town center; tel. 05369-9111). There are regular trips from July to January. Two-day adventures begin and end in the town of Pai at a cost of 2,000B ($49) per person. There are many imitators in town, but Thai Adventure is the best outfit by far, with high safety standards and quality equipment. They can also make the necessary arrangements for pick-up and drop-off in Mae Hong Son.

Small trekking companies, operated by locals, are at every guesthouse and all along the main streets. It is hard to choose from the many, but Duang Trekking (at Duang Guesthouse across from the bus terminal; tel. 05369-9101) has a good reputation. Group treks go for 3 days and 2 nights to Lisu, Karen, Tai Yai and Lahu villages in the hills around Pai for 1,500B ($36) per person (some trips include bamboo rafting). Duang Trekking, like its many competitors, is quite flexible and can tailor any trek or provide private guides according to need.

Tiny Pai boasts quite a few traditional massage places. The best option is Mr. Jan's Herbal Sauna and Massage, where you'll get a Burmese-style massage which is much kinder and gentler than the rigorous Thai style. Ask around for directions to Mr. Jan's. It's on a narrow soi off Chaisongkram Road.